CHILAW

My favourite part of the day was the picnic at a secluded beach.


The beach didn’t have the super soft sands of the Mirissa or Weligama beaches, south of Sri Lanka would have and the bedrock coasting the land would make the waves crash high with such resplendence, spilling frothy droplets of water over our feet making them cool in the early afternoon warmth.

We also, visited the Munneswaram Kovil. There was no one to ask questions about the history of the kovil or of the religious rituals which was a shame. The whole newly built section is standing around the ancient, maybe 900AD, old Siva Devalaya with a Siva lingam around it. In that case this should be a place visited mainly by couples who had trouble conceiving and then come to fulfill their vows. As was evident by the people who thronged the place with little babies screaming for air and/or milk.

Then of course there's the God Vishnu's Kovil and to this people would pray for protection. It says in the Mahawansa, (history of Ceylon) that when Lord Buddha was on his deathbed one of his wishes and requests to the God of all Gods (Shakra), was to appoint a God to look after Ceylon a country his religion would prevail. As God of all Gods did not have sufficient time to handle this responsibility, apparently he entrusted it to God Vishnu. And from then on, Sri Lanka formally known as Ceylon is under the protection of Vishnu.

Vishnu
Vishnu, the god of home and family values, represents stability and order. Vishnu is recognizable by the four symbols he often carries: the discus, conch, club, and lotus. The discus and club are both weapons, signifying his absolute might in destroying evil. The lotus represents fertility and regeneration, the nourishment of the soul that occurs through devotion to this deity. The conch shell is blown in India like a trumpet during many sacred rituals. It is considered to make the purest sound, from which creation springs. In Vishnu's hand the conch symbolizes purity and auspiciousness. In paintings and prints, Vishnu is often shown with blue skin to accentuate his otherworldliness. A stylized representation of his footprints appears on his forehead. This V-shaped symbol of the god is also applied in sandalwood paste to the foreheads of worshipers of Vishnu during puja.

This is how is works – you enter the premises and is instantly a web of vendors descend upon you advising you on the Pooja, or the offering you ought to do. This is mainly cut or whole fruits in season, a cleaned coconut and some money for good measure on a aluminum (silver) platter or a weaved basket. You take your offering and stand in line or present it in unison with the other devotees or wait your turn depending on which God you worship. Then the priest would ask your name or what you intend to bless or vow and would say a lengthy or short prayer according to your wish and hand you back a portion of your offering after taking the other part as the offering to the God. Then you can light your oil lamps, incenses and finally crack your coconut at the appropriate place. We was people from all walks of life at the Kovil. From a very poor people to a family who looked quite affluent to a Police officer from the Chilaw PD. Everyone was friendly and stared all the time. Just like if they were any where else, really, the attention span is so poor.

Just above the small cubicle where a few ancient statues of Vishnu sits, there's a statue of magnanimous proportions of King Rama, the Hindu demon King of Sri Lanka, that Vishnu slays after a fierce battle. Also, all over the walls there are other depictions of 'avataras' or deities of Vishnu in evil forms not done anywhere else, the gory details are horrific and amazing. It's a place you can stay for hours watching the rituals taking place with the people, some looking quite possessed by the sound of the drum beat, symbol and the tinkling bells, swaying to the prayers sung by the priests in "vetti's."

The journey form Negombo to Chilaw takes 45min to 1.15hrs. depending on the traffic. It's approximately 42kms one way. there are petrol stations at every big town maybe every 15km or so and the road surface is excellent with one lane per direction which can be a little hard to over take buses and lorries who can be a little stubborn and selfish and use one and a half lanes to travel.