Staff Trip to Ritigala

Ritigala nestles deep inside the Ritigala Strict Nature Reserve, found just off the Anuradhapura-Habarana road, and is the partially excavated ruins of an extensive Buddhist Monastery. It was abandoned following invasions in 10th and 11th centuries and was rediscovered by the British in the 19th century.

The site is located on a hill, standing prominent against the surrounding flat jungle. It is reached by a jungle track, which is usually drivable for normal vehicles but which may need a four-wheel drive, or even become impassable, during the wet season.

Ritigala is invariably empty with just the gatekeeper and guide present (until around 4.00pm) at the site. Its isolated location and emptiness in comparison with the other Cultural Triangle sites can be exceptionally rewarding for those seeking the less-trod Sri Lanka.

The name Ritigala has debatable meaning; it is most likely that gala, meaning rock in Sinhalese, has combined with a bastardised form of arrittha, a Pali word meaning safety. Thus "Safety-rock" describes Ritigala as a place of refuge; many Kings from the 4th century BC have used it for this purpose.

Ritigala is steeped in mythology: one legend tells how the monkey-king Hanuman was carrying Himalayan healing herbs to the wounded Sita and dropped some at Ritigala. Large numbers of healing plants remain today in a nearby jungle full of wildlife and towering ebony trees.

Walking around the beautiful ruins does certainly give you a feeling of adventures in search of mythical pasts; it is easy to imagine yourself as Indiana Jones whilst clambering over the overgrown relics of a forgotten time.

Contrary to other Buddhist sites, Ritigala has none of the usual icons: no relic house, Buddha images or a Bodhi tree. The monks here are believed to have scorned the outside world. Leading up from the entrance is a semblance of a path around an overgrown and derelict, bathing pool, Banda Pokuna. In one corner of the pool is a natural spring, which can be used, by the brave (or foolish), to fill water bottles.

Up a rocky ledge, you reach what was once a gateway and a still-intact, stone-slab bridge leading to a long staircase through the jungle. At the top of the staircase you reach a collection of excavated buildings: the monastery, which contains a remarkably undamaged urinal, which the guide will be at pains to explain; a hospital, complete

with stone bed, oil-bath and medicine grinders; and, along another jungle path, the remains of a library. Ritigala’s curious blend of nano-safari and archaeology has a special appeal. Children above five should manage the trek and will almost certainly enjoy the experience as it is a bit more hands-on than the other archaeological sites in the Cultural Triangle.

The regular guide speaks very good English and is extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic. He also expects a tip (around Rs400) at the end of the tour and probably deserves it. Ritigala has its own micro-climate and is wet and humid, despite being in the dry-zone, so take a bottle of water with you.

It is not recommended to visit without the guide due to threat of wild animals and special permission from the Wildlife Park Authorities must be obtained to go further on than the excavated ruins.

Two hours is probably the optimum time to spend whilst at the ruins, but the road to them is painfully slow so you need to put aside at least 3 and a half hours to visit.